
A Morning With Chimpanzees
In anticipation of our chimpanzee trekking adventure in Uganda, we had listened to podcasts and read articles to prepare for what to expect. One piece of advice came up again and again: hope for a sunny day. Naturally, we woke up to the sound of rain on the morning of our trek. Not to be deterred, we arrived at the entrance of Kibale Forest National Park. There, we were given a short orientation and a list of important rules to follow in the forest. After being split into small groups, we met our ranger, who would lead us in search of one of the park's chimpanzee troops. We learned that Kibale is home to multiple chimpanzee communities, including several that are fully habituated to human presence and others still in the process. Today , we were hoping to find the Kanyantale community, the first chimp group in Kibale habituated for tourism, a process that began in 1993.
We hopped back into our safari vehicle and followed a park ranger toward the area where scouts had earlier located a habituated troop. After driving into the forest, we stopped in what seemed like the middle of nowhere - it was time to begin our hike. But, it didn’t take long as only ten minutes into the forest, we spotted them—a few chimpanzees high in the trees and, excitingly, three individuals on the ground, a photographers dream! As the rain began to pick up, all of the chimps climbed into the branches for cover. Our guide explained that they dislike rain and often seek natural canopies in the treetops to wait it out.
Soon, a few loud calls rang out . One chimpanzee started descending from the trees, while others began vocalizing more intensely. As we paused to photograph one chimp on the ground, our guide suddenly called out, “My group, come this way!” and darted into the forest. “I don’t want you to miss the real-life Chimp Empire,” he said, referencing a show we’d mentioned watching. He suspected a "rain dance" was about to unfold.
Although it was tough to leave the chimps calmly posing, we trusted our guide and followed him through the undergrowth. He knew the troop’s behaviours well, and within minutes the forest exploded with sound. Loud calls echoed all around us, and chimps began emerging from every direction. They were leaping, running, and smashing branches in dramatic displays of strength and communication.We stood in awe as the forest came alive. Chimps brushed past our legs and flew overhead. It was nearly impossible to count them—they moved too quickly, erupting in a frenzy of motion. Some pounded the ground, others swung through branches, their calls building into a deafening chorus. Then, just as suddenly, the energy shifted.
The rain was still falling, but the chimps had settled. They perched on logs and low branches, arms crossed, simply waiting out the storm. These quieter moments were just as powerful. We observed them up close—the shape of their faces, the texture of their fur, the intelligent glint in their eyes. Watching them sit in the rain, seemingly deep in thought, was a window into their inner world. The alpha male, in particular, caught our attention. He sat stoically, scanning his surroundings, completely composed. Aside from the occasional flick of his eyes or a subtle tilt of his head, he hardly moved. He radiated confidence and calm. Watching the rain bead off his fur as faint light filtered through the canopy felt like a scene from another world.
During our hour with the chimps, we shifted between heart-pounding action and serene stillness. It was one of the most raw, primal experiences I’ve ever had in nature. The chimps paid little attention to us. We weren’t part of their world, but for a brief moment, we were allowed to witness it.
As we made our way back to the vehicles, our guide shared more about the broader impact of chimpanzee tourism in Uganda. He told us that 20% of our permit fees go directly to nearby communities. That money helps fund schools, healthcare centers, and infrastructure. The rest supports ranger salaries and ongoing chimpanzee protection. We also discussed that the troops themselves are all monitored and studied, with research funding from organizations like the Jane Goodall Institute. The success of this model has created a powerful incentive to conserve chimpanzee habitat. Locals now see the forest as an asset. Once dominated by grassland and swamps, much of this region is being reforested to support chimpanzee conservation and ecotourism.
It was a profound reminder that responsible tourism doesn’t just offer incredible animal encounters—it can actively protect species and empower communities. Chimpanzees are deeply intelligent, social, and emotionally complex beings. Seeing them in the wild is a privilege. Knowing that our presence contributes to their survival made it all the more meaningful.My camera and I were both soaked by the end, but I wouldn’t trade that experience for anything. We left the forest buzzing with adrenaline and wonder, grateful for the chance to step into the world of our closest relatives and witness their lives unfold before our eyes.